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Glad Press N Seal pattern Dec 2019
Frustrated with the patterns I tried, I made a copy of one of my foam T-shirt bras by using Glad Press N Seal and drawing on seam lines while I was wearing it. I knew adjustments would be needed, including increasing the upper cup towards the center front and decreasing on the side. As noted on the cup, this was December 2019, and it sat on the sewing table for a long time after that.
Frankenbra
2 slightly different test cups from the Glad Press N Seal pattern sewn into an old band and straps. I fill this out a lot more than my dress form, but there were still some wrinkles on me.
Black lace
Since this was the only suitable fabric I had at the time, my first "real" bra was made from black Duoplex and lace. Wearable, but still some slight wrinkles to smooth out. All supplies are from Bra Makers Supply in Hamilton, Ontario.
Moving the Apex Part 1
Now that my bra fits me well, I decided to move the apex on the pattern just a bit so the seamline on the split lower cup matches my apex exactly. Cut the middle lower cup pattern along the notched seamline and cut a small hinge into the SA at the bottom.
Moving the Apex Part 2
Spread the pattern the required amount, here 1/4 inch, and tape down. We now need to subtract what was added, so slash and overlap the seamline on the inner lower cup 1/4 inch. Adjust (slash and spread) the seamline on the opposite side so it matches the new upper cup notch which is now 1/4 inch closer to center front. Measure all seamlines to make sure they match up. You may want to make a test cup to test out this method.
Beige lace
I moved the straps in 1/4 inch which smoothed out the wrinkles on the top cup. The lace is lined with a very strong nylon sheer lining. The bows hide the strap attachment seam.
Beige lace
Just another angle of the same bra. The back band is peach, not beige, as that is what I had on hand at the time
Beige lace
Same bra on the table. They are stretched very tightly on my dress form as I am smaller in the ribcage. Speaking of stretch, the only thing that stretches on these bras is the strap elastic in the back and the back band. The cups and frame are made from a non-stretch fabric called Duoplex. The lace has some stretch, but is lined with sheer nylon which does not.
Underwires overlap
I discovered that I need the underwire casing to slightly overlap as my girls touch there and I need a very narrow bridge. The seams are topstitched with strips of nylon lining underneath (invisible in the photo), and then the seam is trimmed next to the stitching. With topstitching and pressing, the seams are not visible under clothing. Every seam is stitched at least twice.
Plain pink
Same pattern, but no lace. The top cup is lined for a clean finish at the top, good to wear under T-shirts. I also made a few from beige fabric. On this bra, the strap is cut in one with the side panel, so no seam to hide under a bow.
Frilly lacey pink
I saw this strap treatment done on a $150 Prima Donna bra and tried it here. I then discovered I don't like this much lace and won't do this again.
Lace on the bridge
I also added a piece of lace to the bridge to match up with cup seams. I won't do this again, just too much lace for me. The bows were made by weaving ribbon around the tines of a fork (thanks, You Tube). I could have used pre-made bows, but they were skimpy. I learned to seal the cut edge of the ribbon by placing it next to (not in, oops!) the flame on a lit candle. I sewed this bow a little lower as it gets lost in between the girls. The cups are wrinkled in the photo, but not on me.
Same bra on the table
Just the same bra laid flat on the table.
Close up strap
Close up of strap and bow.
Pink lace
This is my favorite of the pink bras. Lace on the upper cup only, lined with non-stretch sheer nylon, and a narrow elastic at the top of the cup. Large bow on the bridge, with smaller bows hiding the strap seam
Tiny bows
Tiny ribbon bows hide the strap seam.
Beige with neckline trim
All fabric, no lace, with neckline trim to finish the upper cups. Again, quite wrinkled on my dress form, but I fill it out.
Back view
The backs of the bras are all the same, made from powernet, with a stretch section of adjustable strap elastic. The back band is strained very tight on the dressform, as I am smaller in the ribcage.
Pattern layout
4 bras need .75 yards of fabric for the band, cups and straps. The back is cut from powernet, .25 yards for 4 bras. Each bra cost $20-25 to make. Similar European style bras (Prima Donna, Chantelle, etc.) cost at least $100. I studied a lot of photos on line of expensive bras for style and construction.
Paper cups
Some popular bra patterns that did not work for me. This is the view from the top. All the same size 36D, sister size of 34DD, but different interpretations. The upper cups were all too small for me, some were too pointy, some pushed everything to the center, some flattened me out.
Front view
Front view of the same cups. The first cup is oriented for the right side, the others for the left. The first cup would be good for someone cone-shaped, with more volume at the apex, and no cleavage. Not my shape at all. The second cup pushes everything to the center and the third is the roundest of the three. All would need total redrafts to fit me properly. If I had the idea to tape the pattern pieces together to see the cup shape before I started sewing my first bra, I would never have chosen any of these patterns.
Side view
Side view.
The Other Side
Another view from the opposite side.
Pattern adjustments
Some of the adjustments I made to these patterns trying to get them to fit. Adding to the center front of the upper cups, splitting the bottom cup, removing depth from the apex, etc. I started noting the date on the pattern pieces. This was from Feb. and March 2018.
New Bras for Spring March 2021
This turquoise color has been discontinued and was on sale, and I am not one to pass that up. Unfortunately, there was no 3/8 inch elastic for the top of the band going into the strap, so I used 1/2 inch. You would not think 1/8 inch would make a difference, but it fought me going around the curves. Of course, in the end I won, using a bit of steam to soften it up.
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